Wednesday, August 23, 2006
GPCI for Sep 30th release at the LCBO
France (Bordeaux)
2003 Château Rauzan-Ségla - $49.95
WS=92 ; Fascinating aromas of berry, currant and toasted oak. Crushed dark fruits. Full-bodied and chewy with plenty of berry and vanilla flavors. Slowly builds on the palate, with big velvety tannins and a long finish. This is tight and tannic needing plenty of bottle age. Best after 2011. March 31, 2006
RP=88 ; I have a nagging feeling that this wine could be a lot better than it is, especially given the talent at the chateau. With an unusually high percentage of Merlot in the blend (40%, along with 53.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Petit Verdot), the 2003 exhibits an herbal, peppery, spicy nose, a dark plum/ruby color, good ripeness on the attack, a constrained, narrow mid-palate, and a moderately tannic finish. Additional stuffing, substance, and flesh would be beneficial. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 12-15. Manager John Kolasa told me the alcohol was an extremely high 13%, and that the 2005 is even higher at 13.5%. Wine Advocate #164 (APR 2006)
GPCI - great GPCI "index" for a very good wine from the Margaux region in Bordeaux. This chateau has never failed before and 2001 was a good vintage.
2002 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGEY - $54.95
ST = 89 ; Red-ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry, chocolate, coffee, smoke and game; a bit Burgundian. Then smoky, pliant and seamless, with a plump middle and moderate density. Finishes with smooth, slightly dusty tannins and lingering notes of baking spices and nutty oak. My favorite of these three vintages today, showing considerable early appeal.
GPCI - 2002 was a good but not very-good year in Bordeaux. at that price there are better bargains (e.g. 2003 ch. Gran Mayene from St. Emilion cost $55 and is more attractive from cellaring potential and taste...).
2003 CHÂTEAU DE CAMENSAC (AC Haut-Médoc, 5th growth) - $31.95
RP = 89 ; Soft, round, and evolved, the plum/garnet-hued 2003 offers sweet scents of black cherries, plums, and figs, medium to full body, a charming fleshiness, and low acidity. Enjoy this seductive wine over the next 7-10 years (April 2006).
GPCI - great GPCI "index" (around 3). buy 2-3 bottles. A very fair price for a good 5th growth wine from Bordeaux. I'd buy 3-4 bottles.
2003 CHÂTEAU LA TOUR CARNET (4th growth) - $39.95
WS=89 ; Round and velvety with lots of berry and cherry character and toasted oak. Full-bodied, with lovely texture and a medium finish. A tiny bit more on the finish would push it to outstanding. Yummy wine. Best after 2008. 14,165 cases made.
RP = 90 ; Already sensual and evolved, it reveals soft, sexy notes of plums, figs, black currants, pain grille, and earth. Although full-bodied, opulent, pure, and rich, it appears to be on a fast evolutionary track, so consumption over the next decade is recommended (April 2006).
GPCI - from a cellaring potential, I'd go with the CAMENSAC (see above). Yet, relatively, a fair price for a very good Bordeaux.
2003 CHÂTEAU LALANDE-BORIE, Saint-Julien - $28.95
http://www.wineandco.com/ - We are very happy to offer the Lalande Borie en primeur: it is fresh, fruity, elegant and so charming!It is ample with soft tannins and is really silky on the palate.This Saint Julien will be enjoyable in its youth or after 8 to 10 years of cellaring.
Vintages.com - This wine is made by the people behind Château Ducru-Beaucaillou. Medium ruby colour. The aromas suggest strawberry eau-de-vie, root vegetables, cassis and black olive. Dry and well-balanced, look for supple tannins, ripe fruit and bright acidity. Medium-bodied with a medium long, elegant finish. May be aged 1-3 years, or match it tonight with pork tenderloin or your turkey dinner.
GPCI - it's interesting how people evaluate the cellaring potential (1-3 years vs. 8-10 years) - as always, you should be the judge of this. I'd buy 2-3 bottles and taste one now and then decide whether 5 years in the cellar will benefit the wine or not... in any case, this is a very fair price for a St. Julien.
2003 CHÂTEAU BEAU-SITE, Saint-Estèphe, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur - $39.95
WS=88 ; Bright aromas of blackberry, spices and smoke. Full-bodied, with thick, silky tannins and a medium yet flavorful finish. Needs a little bit more length to be outstanding. Best after 2008. Wine Spectator, March 31, 2006
RP=88 ; Not surprisingly, virtually every St.-Estephe I tasted was at least very good, and this is another example of an impressively endowed, dark ruby/purple-colored effort. Although not complex, it offers good cassis fruit, chunky, heady flavors, and soft tannin. Enjoy it over the next decade. Wine Advocate #152 (APR 2004).
GPCI - I had the 2002 and it was a very good surprising wine. again, it's a relatively fair price for the Bordeaux quality. I personally like the wines from St. Estephe (left bank, north part of the Bordeaux region).
2003 CHÂTEAU FONTENIL - $39.95
AC Fronsac (Michel and Dany Rolland)
RP = 90 ; Fontenil is the home estate of the brilliant husband and wife oenologists, Michel and Dany Rolland. The authoritative, dark ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Fontenil offers hints of plums, blackberries, blueberries, charcoal, and smoke in its ripe, dense, moderately tannic personality. Give this broad, savory, full-bodied effort 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 12-14 years (April 2006).
GPCI - again, another good GPCI "index". Fronsac usually produce great wines that can be cellared for many years and dhave the interesting complexity that is well extracted from the local terroir (right bank, north to St. Emilion).
2001 CHÂTEAU ST. GEORGES - $38.95
http://www.friarwood.com/ - The wine possesses a remarkable harmony of body and bouquet. It has a rich nose of black fruits and cedar and a generous character and full-bodied flavour; soft fruit balances with gentle oaking to give an excellent ripe St. Emilion flavour of blackcurrants, raspberry and cocoa
Decanter - A traditional wine, lightly oaked, medium bodied, quite stylish, and discreet rather than opulent. Up to 2010.
Vintages.com - A traditionally-style Merlot-based wine with aromas of cherry, blackberry, anise, humus and spice cabinet. It is dry and assertive with a very good structure and fine tannins. This wine will reward 5+ years in a cellar.
GPCI - although I like the wines from this chateau, there are other more tempting bargains this release. I'd leave this bottle for another time (budget... you know...)
France (South Rhone valley)
2003 DOMAINE DE VIEUX TELEGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE - $55.95
RP=92 ; The 2003 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape has turned out well. Deep ruby with some purple nuances, this wine is medium to full-bodied and reveals notes of licorice, pepper, Asian spices, black cherry, raspberry, and currant, as well as a relatively big, sweet palate impression with moderate tannin in the finish. It is accessible, but will benefit from 2-3 years of aging. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018
WineAccess (ST) = 89 ; Dark red. Understated aromas of dried strawberry, redcurrant and garrigue complicated by a whiff of black tea. A fairly restrained midweight, atypical in this vintage, with dried red berry and mocha flavors. Finishes focused and taut, with dusty tannins and hints of red plum and licorice. Those who fear the 2003 bogeyman can safely give this one a try.
GPCI - If you have tried CNP from this domaine in the past, you know that it's an outstanding wine - it's worth the high price (although again, if you compare this quality to the equivalent in Bordeaux - it's a steal...).
2003 DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIERE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 'HAUT BRUSQUIERES - $54.95
http://www.bbr.com/ - Vin de terroir from a lieu-dit at the heart of the appellation. Delicious savoury aromas and notes of figs, chocolate and truffles to complement all the ripe fruit. A keeper.
RP = 90 ; Decidedly earthy and again resiny and nearly obnoxiously spicy, the 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Hautes Brusquières Cuvée Speciale seems to be too driven by the spice component as opposed to the fruit aspects. Some gritty tannin in the finish also kept my eyebrows raised. This is a firm, big wine, but is showing some of the harsh tannins that sometimes plague the vintage. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and hope they become resolved. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016.
GPCI - another temptation from the CNP region. two great wines in the same release... it's going to be an expensive weekend at the LCBO...
New Zealand
CLOUDY BAY CHARDONNAY - $29.95
www.wineoftheweek.com - Light gold in colour with peach and vanilla on the nose, this is a big, rounded, glycerolic, oily textured wine with spicy oak, juicy grilled peach fruit, lots of creamy butterscotch and a smidgen of grapefruit to balance the richness and natural fruit sweetness of the long, toasty, mouthfilling finish. Starting to open up nicely – a delicious main course wine.
GPCI - it's not a cheap wine (although when you compare it to his equal in quality friends from Clifornia, it's a bargain), but if you appreciate a very good Chardonnay, it's a real treat! I believe it could be cellared for 2-4 years.
California
2003 ARTEZIN ZINFANDEL - $21.95
Napa/Amador/Mendocino Counties (Hess Group)
Wine Enthusiast=90 ; Artezin is a new label from Donald Hess that's devoted to Zinfandel. The grapes are 67% Mendocino, 21% Amador and 12% Napa County in origin.Tasting Note: There are blueberries and cherries in there along with the brambly, peppery stuff. The wine is claret-style, meaning it's balanced and harmonious despite 15.5% alcohol (Dec. 15, 2005)
GPCI - great value for what seems to be a powerful Zin. buy 2-3 bottles.
Australia
2003 ELDERTON ‘FRIENDS' SHIRAZ - $19.95
RP=91 ; Barossa, South Australia Tasting Note: The least expensive Shiraz offering here is the 2003 Friends, a lovely, seductive effort with low acidity, blackberry and cassis fruit, and hints of smoke, earth, wood, and charcoal. Enjoy this attractive red over the next 4-5 years.
GPCI - although it doesn't have a great cellaring potential, it's a great value for highly rated Shiraz. If you're planning a BBQ soon, buy few - it's a sure bet.
2001 YALUMBA ‘THE SIGNATURE' CABERNET SAUVIGNON/SHIRAZ - $44.95
Barossa, South Australia Tasting Note: The 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz
RP=95 (!) ; The Signature is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Shiraz that spent 20 months in a combination of French and American hogsheads as well as smaller barrels. Its deep, sweet perfume of blackberries, camphor, damp earth, vanilla, licorice, and pepper is followed by a powerful, flavorful, intense wine revealing high tannins as well as impressive concentration. This superb Cabernet should easily age for 12-15 years.
GPCI - this is a GPCI classic - an "index" of 3 - cost almost $45 but can be cellared for 15 years. If you haven't had this wine before, you owe it to yourself and your cellaer.
Italy (Tuscany)
2001 MARCHESE ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA - $34.95
DOCG
RP = 90 ; The 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Tenute Marchese Antinori, a mouthful of a name, is essentially a selection of the best Sangiovese grapes of the house's Chianti Classico vineyards, with the sole exception of the Badia a Passignano. A solid ruby in color, its nose of red berry fruit, leather, and game is followed by full flavors, plush and classy in their flow and with a rising intensity and density on the finish. Drink: 2006-2016.
GPCI - already accessible from the leading Antinori family in the Chianti Classico region within Tuscany. Good GPCI "index". buy 2 bottles.
Italy (Veneto)
2001 FARINA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO - $34.95
DOC
vintages.com - From the respected Farina family, this Amarone is a captivating blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes. Look for aromas of raspberry and spice on the nose leading to a palate that is full-bodied with velvety tannins and a harmonious balance. Excellent with game dishes and ethereal with hard cheeses.
GPCI - Amarone has become very expensive lately - some of the leading names offer their Amarone for more than $55. Farina is a great-value Amarone (I have tasted their great 98, 99 and 2000 Amarone) that delivers all the complexity and the balanced power one may seek in such wine. buy 2-3 bottles.
2003 Château Rauzan-Ségla - $49.95
WS=92 ; Fascinating aromas of berry, currant and toasted oak. Crushed dark fruits. Full-bodied and chewy with plenty of berry and vanilla flavors. Slowly builds on the palate, with big velvety tannins and a long finish. This is tight and tannic needing plenty of bottle age. Best after 2011. March 31, 2006
RP=88 ; I have a nagging feeling that this wine could be a lot better than it is, especially given the talent at the chateau. With an unusually high percentage of Merlot in the blend (40%, along with 53.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Petit Verdot), the 2003 exhibits an herbal, peppery, spicy nose, a dark plum/ruby color, good ripeness on the attack, a constrained, narrow mid-palate, and a moderately tannic finish. Additional stuffing, substance, and flesh would be beneficial. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 12-15. Manager John Kolasa told me the alcohol was an extremely high 13%, and that the 2005 is even higher at 13.5%. Wine Advocate #164 (APR 2006)
GPCI - great GPCI "index" for a very good wine from the Margaux region in Bordeaux. This chateau has never failed before and 2001 was a good vintage.
2002 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGEY - $54.95
ST = 89 ; Red-ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry, chocolate, coffee, smoke and game; a bit Burgundian. Then smoky, pliant and seamless, with a plump middle and moderate density. Finishes with smooth, slightly dusty tannins and lingering notes of baking spices and nutty oak. My favorite of these three vintages today, showing considerable early appeal.
GPCI - 2002 was a good but not very-good year in Bordeaux. at that price there are better bargains (e.g. 2003 ch. Gran Mayene from St. Emilion cost $55 and is more attractive from cellaring potential and taste...).
2003 CHÂTEAU DE CAMENSAC (AC Haut-Médoc, 5th growth) - $31.95
RP = 89 ; Soft, round, and evolved, the plum/garnet-hued 2003 offers sweet scents of black cherries, plums, and figs, medium to full body, a charming fleshiness, and low acidity. Enjoy this seductive wine over the next 7-10 years (April 2006).
GPCI - great GPCI "index" (around 3). buy 2-3 bottles. A very fair price for a good 5th growth wine from Bordeaux. I'd buy 3-4 bottles.
2003 CHÂTEAU LA TOUR CARNET (4th growth) - $39.95
WS=89 ; Round and velvety with lots of berry and cherry character and toasted oak. Full-bodied, with lovely texture and a medium finish. A tiny bit more on the finish would push it to outstanding. Yummy wine. Best after 2008. 14,165 cases made.
RP = 90 ; Already sensual and evolved, it reveals soft, sexy notes of plums, figs, black currants, pain grille, and earth. Although full-bodied, opulent, pure, and rich, it appears to be on a fast evolutionary track, so consumption over the next decade is recommended (April 2006).
GPCI - from a cellaring potential, I'd go with the CAMENSAC (see above). Yet, relatively, a fair price for a very good Bordeaux.
2003 CHÂTEAU LALANDE-BORIE, Saint-Julien - $28.95
http://www.wineandco.com/ - We are very happy to offer the Lalande Borie en primeur: it is fresh, fruity, elegant and so charming!It is ample with soft tannins and is really silky on the palate.This Saint Julien will be enjoyable in its youth or after 8 to 10 years of cellaring.
Vintages.com - This wine is made by the people behind Château Ducru-Beaucaillou. Medium ruby colour. The aromas suggest strawberry eau-de-vie, root vegetables, cassis and black olive. Dry and well-balanced, look for supple tannins, ripe fruit and bright acidity. Medium-bodied with a medium long, elegant finish. May be aged 1-3 years, or match it tonight with pork tenderloin or your turkey dinner.
GPCI - it's interesting how people evaluate the cellaring potential (1-3 years vs. 8-10 years) - as always, you should be the judge of this. I'd buy 2-3 bottles and taste one now and then decide whether 5 years in the cellar will benefit the wine or not... in any case, this is a very fair price for a St. Julien.
2003 CHÂTEAU BEAU-SITE, Saint-Estèphe, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur - $39.95
WS=88 ; Bright aromas of blackberry, spices and smoke. Full-bodied, with thick, silky tannins and a medium yet flavorful finish. Needs a little bit more length to be outstanding. Best after 2008. Wine Spectator, March 31, 2006
RP=88 ; Not surprisingly, virtually every St.-Estephe I tasted was at least very good, and this is another example of an impressively endowed, dark ruby/purple-colored effort. Although not complex, it offers good cassis fruit, chunky, heady flavors, and soft tannin. Enjoy it over the next decade. Wine Advocate #152 (APR 2004).
GPCI - I had the 2002 and it was a very good surprising wine. again, it's a relatively fair price for the Bordeaux quality. I personally like the wines from St. Estephe (left bank, north part of the Bordeaux region).
2003 CHÂTEAU FONTENIL - $39.95
AC Fronsac (Michel and Dany Rolland)
RP = 90 ; Fontenil is the home estate of the brilliant husband and wife oenologists, Michel and Dany Rolland. The authoritative, dark ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Fontenil offers hints of plums, blackberries, blueberries, charcoal, and smoke in its ripe, dense, moderately tannic personality. Give this broad, savory, full-bodied effort 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 12-14 years (April 2006).
GPCI - again, another good GPCI "index". Fronsac usually produce great wines that can be cellared for many years and dhave the interesting complexity that is well extracted from the local terroir (right bank, north to St. Emilion).
2001 CHÂTEAU ST. GEORGES - $38.95
http://www.friarwood.com/ - The wine possesses a remarkable harmony of body and bouquet. It has a rich nose of black fruits and cedar and a generous character and full-bodied flavour; soft fruit balances with gentle oaking to give an excellent ripe St. Emilion flavour of blackcurrants, raspberry and cocoa
Decanter - A traditional wine, lightly oaked, medium bodied, quite stylish, and discreet rather than opulent. Up to 2010.
Vintages.com - A traditionally-style Merlot-based wine with aromas of cherry, blackberry, anise, humus and spice cabinet. It is dry and assertive with a very good structure and fine tannins. This wine will reward 5+ years in a cellar.
GPCI - although I like the wines from this chateau, there are other more tempting bargains this release. I'd leave this bottle for another time (budget... you know...)
France (South Rhone valley)
2003 DOMAINE DE VIEUX TELEGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE - $55.95
RP=92 ; The 2003 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape has turned out well. Deep ruby with some purple nuances, this wine is medium to full-bodied and reveals notes of licorice, pepper, Asian spices, black cherry, raspberry, and currant, as well as a relatively big, sweet palate impression with moderate tannin in the finish. It is accessible, but will benefit from 2-3 years of aging. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018
WineAccess (ST) = 89 ; Dark red. Understated aromas of dried strawberry, redcurrant and garrigue complicated by a whiff of black tea. A fairly restrained midweight, atypical in this vintage, with dried red berry and mocha flavors. Finishes focused and taut, with dusty tannins and hints of red plum and licorice. Those who fear the 2003 bogeyman can safely give this one a try.
GPCI - If you have tried CNP from this domaine in the past, you know that it's an outstanding wine - it's worth the high price (although again, if you compare this quality to the equivalent in Bordeaux - it's a steal...).
2003 DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIERE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 'HAUT BRUSQUIERES - $54.95
http://www.bbr.com/ - Vin de terroir from a lieu-dit at the heart of the appellation. Delicious savoury aromas and notes of figs, chocolate and truffles to complement all the ripe fruit. A keeper.
RP = 90 ; Decidedly earthy and again resiny and nearly obnoxiously spicy, the 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Hautes Brusquières Cuvée Speciale seems to be too driven by the spice component as opposed to the fruit aspects. Some gritty tannin in the finish also kept my eyebrows raised. This is a firm, big wine, but is showing some of the harsh tannins that sometimes plague the vintage. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and hope they become resolved. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016.
GPCI - another temptation from the CNP region. two great wines in the same release... it's going to be an expensive weekend at the LCBO...
New Zealand
CLOUDY BAY CHARDONNAY - $29.95
www.wineoftheweek.com - Light gold in colour with peach and vanilla on the nose, this is a big, rounded, glycerolic, oily textured wine with spicy oak, juicy grilled peach fruit, lots of creamy butterscotch and a smidgen of grapefruit to balance the richness and natural fruit sweetness of the long, toasty, mouthfilling finish. Starting to open up nicely – a delicious main course wine.
GPCI - it's not a cheap wine (although when you compare it to his equal in quality friends from Clifornia, it's a bargain), but if you appreciate a very good Chardonnay, it's a real treat! I believe it could be cellared for 2-4 years.
California
2003 ARTEZIN ZINFANDEL - $21.95
Napa/Amador/Mendocino Counties (Hess Group)
Wine Enthusiast=90 ; Artezin is a new label from Donald Hess that's devoted to Zinfandel. The grapes are 67% Mendocino, 21% Amador and 12% Napa County in origin.Tasting Note: There are blueberries and cherries in there along with the brambly, peppery stuff. The wine is claret-style, meaning it's balanced and harmonious despite 15.5% alcohol (Dec. 15, 2005)
GPCI - great value for what seems to be a powerful Zin. buy 2-3 bottles.
Australia
2003 ELDERTON ‘FRIENDS' SHIRAZ - $19.95
RP=91 ; Barossa, South Australia Tasting Note: The least expensive Shiraz offering here is the 2003 Friends, a lovely, seductive effort with low acidity, blackberry and cassis fruit, and hints of smoke, earth, wood, and charcoal. Enjoy this attractive red over the next 4-5 years.
GPCI - although it doesn't have a great cellaring potential, it's a great value for highly rated Shiraz. If you're planning a BBQ soon, buy few - it's a sure bet.
2001 YALUMBA ‘THE SIGNATURE' CABERNET SAUVIGNON/SHIRAZ - $44.95
Barossa, South Australia Tasting Note: The 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz
RP=95 (!) ; The Signature is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Shiraz that spent 20 months in a combination of French and American hogsheads as well as smaller barrels. Its deep, sweet perfume of blackberries, camphor, damp earth, vanilla, licorice, and pepper is followed by a powerful, flavorful, intense wine revealing high tannins as well as impressive concentration. This superb Cabernet should easily age for 12-15 years.
GPCI - this is a GPCI classic - an "index" of 3 - cost almost $45 but can be cellared for 15 years. If you haven't had this wine before, you owe it to yourself and your cellaer.
Italy (Tuscany)
2001 MARCHESE ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA - $34.95
DOCG
RP = 90 ; The 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Tenute Marchese Antinori, a mouthful of a name, is essentially a selection of the best Sangiovese grapes of the house's Chianti Classico vineyards, with the sole exception of the Badia a Passignano. A solid ruby in color, its nose of red berry fruit, leather, and game is followed by full flavors, plush and classy in their flow and with a rising intensity and density on the finish. Drink: 2006-2016.
GPCI - already accessible from the leading Antinori family in the Chianti Classico region within Tuscany. Good GPCI "index". buy 2 bottles.
Italy (Veneto)
2001 FARINA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO - $34.95
DOC
vintages.com - From the respected Farina family, this Amarone is a captivating blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes. Look for aromas of raspberry and spice on the nose leading to a palate that is full-bodied with velvety tannins and a harmonious balance. Excellent with game dishes and ethereal with hard cheeses.
GPCI - Amarone has become very expensive lately - some of the leading names offer their Amarone for more than $55. Farina is a great-value Amarone (I have tasted their great 98, 99 and 2000 Amarone) that delivers all the complexity and the balanced power one may seek in such wine. buy 2-3 bottles.
